Ordered all the parts online, waiting for them to arrive while I print off the printable stuff. How do I print object with a single layer wall? the print is just fine until it gets there, but then it seems to over extrude.Īnonymous Fri Dec 29 18:11:49 2017 No.1304784Īnonymous Fri Dec 29 21:50:51 2017 No.1304907įile: 81 KB, 1000圆66, hangprinter_tower.jpgĪfter watching Tom and Torbjorn build the V3 hangprinter, I'm going to try and build one myself. The finish on the bottom isn't as smooth as glass, but it's still shiny with a tiny dot pattern imprinted on it.Īnonymous Fri Dec 29 18:10:17 2017 No.1304783 What makes it differ from PEI is that once the print is finished and you can let the bed cool down and then just pop the print off with little resistance. At room temperature it doesn't stick, but it does pretty well at 60C for PLA, and at 80-100C for PETG. It's a build surface like PEI that helps the first layer stick properly, but the stickyness depends more on the temperature of the bed than the material itself. Hey /3dpg/ i'd like to shill a product i've started using recently that i'm happy with - Printbite. Oh, ill re-post my question if there is a better threadĪnonymous Fri Dec 29 03:26:25 2017 No.1304390Īnyone sell their printer? I have a custom one and it's too big for me now that I moved to a smaller place. Is there any free/low cost shipping distributor that is open right now?Īnonymous Fri Dec 29 03:00:53 2017 No.1304384 I dont know if the typical resistor setup works, but my common NPN sensor shouldn't have any issue with that. Is there a better method than this? most of the other boards have 5v on the endstop pins rather than 3v on the duet. I have lots of resisters and one, untested/Idontknowhowtoreadsignaldiodes diode and need to find a replacement. Moved to duet, found out my z probe sensor needs to now work with 3v logic.Įverything is setup and good other than the probe, but all the online distributors with samples are closed until January for a BAT43 diode that they recommend Oops I wasn't paying attention and now it's too late to delete. A little upset at the spot under the tail, but i was thinking of painting anyways.Īnonymous Thu Dec 28 23:45:57 2017 No.1304321 Would have looked pretty sweet in two tone. I really wish i had some white pla left over.
>what programs do you make your own files withīegin with a roll of known brand PLA before moving to more demanding materials. >why do my prints look like shit, visual troubleshooting
Will post more information as Cetus and the community address the issue further./3dpg/ - 3D Printing General Anonymous Thu Dec 28 20:10:32 2017 No.1304229Īdditive Manufacturing Technologies:3D Printing, Rapid Prototyping, and Direct Digital Manufacturing, Gibson Rosen Stucker The only other solution for the power loss z-axis drop is to keep the Cetus3D plugged into a UPS/battery backup. Udo has mentioned that he's working on a more thorough fix that would also help in the second condition, where the Cetus loses power.įor now, it seems a common fix is to place a piece of foam to catch the z-axis once it reaches a height that allows the foam to be slid underneath. This would only help with the first condition for z-axis drop, when a print completes.Īdditionally, Backer #1, Udo Nacken, has created a mechanical fix to the first scenario also which also gives the printer a nice resting position for the z-axis when not printing. He points out a file that should be deleted common to Up studio and the old version of the Cetus software. If power is lost at any time during a print, the z-axis drops.Ĭurrent Band-Aid fix by Cetus3D/Jason Wu can be found here. When a print completes, the z-axis rises to the top and then drops. Early backers that have received the Cetus3D have noted that the z-axis free-falls under two conditions.
0 kommentar(er)
